Restaurants + Cocktails

Mom's Kitchen | Done Right

5/28/2020 | Ryan Holbrook
Caroline Hargraves

Even as our city starts to open back up, it’s likely that restaurants will continue to depend on revenue from takeout services for the foreseeable future. As such, for those still reluctant to venture out to eat, we’ve been busy compiling a list of our favorite dishes available to-go from myriad spots around the city. While plenty of the places listed need no introduction, we’re also doing what we can to offer a closer look at the spots whose name recognition might not be so ubiquitous. Afghan Kitchen—a supremely delicious family-owned establishment—was our first such profile and this week we’re following it up with a look at another worthy institution: Mom’s Kitchen.

Founded by two moms who met in SLC circa 2010 (Mama Chen from Taiwan, Mama Zhang from Beijing), this appropriately named State Street spot is solid in all respects. The service is perpetually friendly, the staff is always helpful, and the food never strays beyond the borders of “thoughtful, generous, and delicious.” 

To Try:

Mom’s Spicy Cold Noodles with Peanut Sauce

A “Mom’s Special” these Sichuan-style dan dan noodles are silky, rich, and perfectly refreshing when temperatures creep into the 90s (that’s not to say, however, that they shouldn’t be ordered year-round). The peanut sauce in which they’re doused is practically drinkable and, as a whole, the dish contains just the right amount of heat. 

Pan-fried Stuffed Buns

Where these buns are concerned, it’s all about execution. Each individual element—the filling, the dough, and the pan sear—is deftly created and the result is nothing short of sublime. 

Green Onion Cake

These pan-fried cakes are sumptuous, highly shareable, and come with a dipping sauce that provides a nice vinegary tang to balance out the oily richness of the dish.

The above recommendations are in no means an exhaustive list of what’s good at Mom’s. In fact, the restaurant’s menu is pages long and contains everything from hard-to-find dishes like dry-fried croakers and pig intestines cooked in blood to vegetable dishes so delicious that they could easily constitute an entire meal on their own. The selection can be a bit overwhelming but no matter what you land on, chances are it was prepared with the utmost degree of care and quality, and that’s precisely why we’re so keen on this spot.

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